Friday, April 15, 2011

Old Friends, Great Food

In some ways the tourism to day seemed easy, but one look at our little girl fast asleep in bed reminds us of the relentless pace.

Breakfast began at Dunkin Donuts. There is a reason why we enjoy a the Traditional Korean morning meal more. All those sugar laden buns left the grown-ups with a sugar high without mentioning the affect on the kids.

A leisurely start to the day with a ferry tour from Mipo Port, near Haeundae Beach, to Jagalchi Market. This port claims to be the 5th busiest in the world and judging by the shipping traffic, one was not about to dispute this claim. It is difficult to believe there are massive plans to relocate the port facilities to allow for a massive tourist/building/marina complex to be built. That is the plan according to pictures a guide showed us on Busan Tower.





Our bus met us at the ferry terminal to take us to Yondoo Park. It is a hill on which the Busan Tower is now dwarfed by ever increasing apartment blocks around the city.

During the Korean war this was the site for a large refugee camp, leaving the hill virtually denuded of even a blade of grass. A refreshing gesture by the UN and Korean government has allowed this park to be built in recognition of the displaced persons and casualties of the war, both armed forces and civilian on this former refugee site. The hillside has been re vegetated and dedicated as a shrine.

Following Lunch, many of the Mums enjoyed the opportunity to shop at the markets around the PIFF (Pusan International Film Festival square). This area is known as the old market and is similar to the markets around various parts of Seoul. Shops abound for both locals and tourists alike and there is plenty of opportunity to find both gems and trash. Bargaining is a little less forthcoming, but some good buys can be found. Still, we satiated a little of the shopping bug, knowing the real opportunities will come in Seoul. We bought 5 T-shirts for ourselves and friends back home.

Jagalchi Market is the main fish market for Busan and souther Sth Korea. Only Amelie of the children came on a brief 15-20 minute tour.

Although strong with various odours of the sea, it is both fascinating and shocking to see so much fish produce for sale.

Many of the live tanks were filled to overflowing with fish, crustaceans, octopus, squid, eels and live shells.

Some of the old stall holders,particularly the women,looked as though they had spent a lifetime selling produce and have a living memory of the war. Amelie had many different reactions to the whole market, but even her innocent observations formed the question to her mother “are all the fish in the world here?”

One could certainly have the impression the sea is a boundless resource and certainly exploited to the 'max', but can this continue unabated?

The real Highlight was to meet and have dinner with Melbournian ex-pat and Korean adoptee families the Roland and Boks. Lindy Bok and Michelle Roland planned to take us to a traditional restaurant that is favoured by many locals. It is situated to the SE of Busan along the growth corridor that suburbs are heading. See Michelle's blog for location details.

Meal rooms range from small intimate 2 person quarters to large communal rooms for upwards of 50. These are arranged in a collection of traditional buildings, complete with thatched roofs and raised floors. One is obliged to take off shoes on the “Verandah” to proceed to sit on the floor at low tables. One reason for this is the ondol or heated floors are nice and toasty in winter months.The meal was just marvellous, The main dish roasted duck stew served in a baked whole pumpkin giving the while dish a wonderful smoked flavour. The usual side dishes of various Kim-chi and other specialities made for a meal worthy of any “Goldfields” dinner Liz enjoys with her food and wine group.

After dinner Lindy & Eric invited us all back to their place for drinks and a social natter. For me it was good to catch up with Al Roland from school and Hockey days. Both grown-ups and kids had such fun that it was well after 10 before we all made our way walking back to the hotel along Haeundae Beach. The relatively warm evening made for a pleasant walk and continue with the Roland’s as their current 'condo' is literally on the beach front a mere block from our hotel.

It means poor old Amelie has had a very late night, but tomorrow involves two 2.5 hour stints on the bus travelling via sightseeing in Jinju.


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